Jeff Goldblum, Kyle MacLachlan rule the court at the Prada menswear show

MILAN (AP) – Jeff Goldblum added a bit of lightness to Milan Fashion Week on Sunday as he flew down Prada’s runway in a dark overcoat that gave a dramatic silhouette.

The latest menswear collection in the two-year-old collaboration between Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons as co-creative directors was at once elementary and festive, presenting elevated versions of everyday wear.

“We were thinking of meaningful fashion, pieces that make sense,” Prada said in show notes. “Clothes that make people feel important and that are therefore in themselves important, nothing to throw away.”

Kyle MacLachlan and Goldblum opened and closed the runway show, respectively, which featured eight other actors, selected by the designers to represent “real men, acclaimed characters” who enhanced reality.

Both wore long overcoats. Goldblums were dramatically set in motion with furry trim, while MacLachlans were contrasted with glittery trousers and shirt in light blue. When he finished the show, Goldblum hysterically emerged from a purple lighted tunnel, as if surprised at being on a runway, and then sashayed merrily along.

The guests at the Fondazione Prada showroom sat in velvet-clad theater seats at a good distance.

Outerwear and workwear formed the backbone of the collection, sturdy, durable pieces. Statement pieces like long overcoats were trimmed in technical mohair, thick along the seam and ringing upper arms. At times, the shoulders were highlighted, and a belt tightened at the waist for maximum shape.

The designers continued their exploration of the uniform as the world repeatedly moves into the office in the midst of the coronavirus pandemic, proposing elegant, lightweight and almost shapeless coveralls in silk technology, leather and cotton.

“They replace the traditional, historic shirt / tie / bow and give a new energy and reality, also a younger attitude,” Simons said.

The designers also gave the collection glimpses of color in orange, yellow and icy shades. Looks were completed with matching colored gloves. Statement earrings were shaped like robots or the new Prada triangular logo. Bags included futuristic triangular shapes or double-cylinder backpacks.

While the pandemic is still raging, fashion designers had different, even opposing, views at the present moment: That we are moving out of the darkness and into the light – or that it is time to bend down.

Indian designer Dhruv Kapoor took the former view in a collection that unites masculine forms with psychedelic designs with the underlying message that it is mind over substance.

“I really want to push the power of the mind through this collection,” Kapoor said. “That’s what I want, to spread love through the brand.”

“Linear time is an illusion” is embroidered in an outburst of pink on a bespoke overcoat, a job that takes 20-25 days to complete. Another slogan promotes “parallel worlds”, the notion that we can be more than one place at a time. Felt hats with thick fringes represent dreadlocks worn by yogis and are considered promising.

In contrast, Rome-based American designer Justin Gall’s debut collection from the Milan runway radiated the need for protection, to bend down and wait.

The look could equip groups of survivors trapped in a dystopia, with a mashup of puffer jackets, vests and quilted pants, layered or interspersed with faux fur elements. The caps were fastened over dark sunglasses, and the trousers alternated between heavy leather with utility pockets and light parachute trousers.

“One motivation for me is survival. That’s what we’re trying to do now,” Gall said backstage.


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